Armani Charts Future in Milan While Bottega Veneta Sheds Layers

POLICY WIRE — Milan, Italy — The future of the Giorgio Armani empire is coming into sharper focus a year after the legendary designer’s death. On the runway in Milan, his signature elegance defined the latest collection previewed on Sunday, while behind the scenes talks are set to begin on the sale of a stake, as stipulated in his will.

Armani gave preference to LVMH, L’Oréal and EssilorLuxottica as potential buyers of a 15% stake to be sold within 18 months of his death on September 4, 2025, at the age of 91. Chief Executive Giuseppe Marsocci told reporters backstage at the runway show that there were no favorites and that the stake could potentially be split among all three companies.

Marsocci noted that it is not written in stone that there has to be one buyer. He explained that the will allowed discussions to begin only after the first anniversary of Armani’s death, though he declined to confirm whether they had officially started. The assumption that talks were underway may have some logic, he added.

The recent appointment of Dario Vitale as head of accessories at Giorgio Armani and creative director of Emporio Armani has generated intense interest in the fashion house’s creative trajectory. Asked whether Vitale’s role could expand, Marsocci stated that everything was evolving and that from here into the future, you never know.

The womenswear collection for next spring and summer deliberately mixed daywear with evening looks, incorporating sparkle across both categories. Silhouettes were shaped by lean, fluid trousers and long dresses, often paired with rigid bodices, alongside generous applications of silver and gold accents.

Silvana Armani, the late designer’s niece and longtime head of womenswear, described the Evolution-titled collection as fashion that everyone can wear. She departed from her uncle’s legacy by incorporating cotton, a textile that she noted he disliked but which she adores.

The late designer’s presence was felt most concretely in the collection through a recreation of the formal double-breasted Communion suit that Armani wore when he was 8 years old. Designers also included a graphic jacket bearing his distinct image.

Meanwhile, Bottega Veneta captured attention in Milan under the direction of its creative team, moving closer to the controlled ease associated with Tomas Maier while retaining contemporary visual exuberance. The British designer transferred some of the collection’s drama to oversized raffia intrecciato bags resembling huge natural-fiber shields.

For the garments, the designer streamlined silhouettes using natural materials and the lightest leather possible to evoke southern Europe’s changing seasons through disrobing and optimism. Standout pieces included a floral dress constructed from long loops of uncut fringe that flickered with every step.

Front-row guests for the Saturday evening show included Julianne Moore and Travis Scott, while Kendall Jenner closed the presentation. The designer emphasized a desire to express core craft values with the lightest hand possible.

Reporting by Policy-Wire (PW)